by Rosie Evans
As the fifth Wales Real Food and Farming Conference approaches, as well as getting excited about the prospect of two jam-packed days of food focussed sessions and the chance to meet with people in the field from throughout Wales, I have been wondering just what exactly it is that draws so many people, me included, towards the cause of sustainable food.
Food is something we interact with every day. It’s such a part of our everyday, that the power and importance of it can sometimes feel unseen – but food is what binds us all together. Though we’re in different places, growing, producing, sourcing and eating different things, in different ways, food is a nexus around which we can come together, and this is what next week’s conference is all about.
And unlike the sometimes psychologically distant and seemingly insurmountable climate, biodiversity and social crises that we see in the news every day, food is arguably unique in its immediacy and intimacy with our daily lives. We interact with, are ‘nudged’ towards certain choices, and exercise genuine agency around food every single day in a variety of differing ways. These vary from the personal choice of what you eat for breakfast, growing your own or choosing to buy local, to the economic, political and globalized landscapes and food systems that govern what food is available when, to whom, and at what economic, environmental and social cost.
As farmers and producers, retailers, consumers, academics, educators and activists, our endeavours are subject to such exterior forces and systems outside of our immediate control when it comes to food. And while that makes it incredibly complex to attempt to understand, pick apart and create interventions and solutions, the nature of food – and the ecosystems that underpin its production, and is vital to our very existence – obliges us to keep going.
Whether you’re passionate about food sovereignty, alternative food networks or the decommodification of food; small businesses, rural economies, fair prices, better working conditions and equitable roots to market for our farmers and growers; whether you’d like to see a resurgence of heritage grains or heritage livestock breeds; whether you want to see our rivers, meadows and hedgerows healthier, a transition to zero carbon farming, more orchards, CSAs, community gardens, traditional mixed farms, agroforestry or silvopasture –there’s something for everyone and every single interest area, expertise and stakeholder concern in the world of sustainable food and farming.
And though we’ve got some really big challenges to overcome, we’re a diverse community of creative, passionate and resilient people with the skills, endurance and imagination to co-create the futures we choose.
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Ahead of the conference, I’ve been revisiting some of my top ‘foodie reads’ to get you in the mood…
Unearthed by Claire Ratinon
Beautifully written, this horizon-expanding memoir blends Claire’s personal account of a move to the country to run a rural smallholding, with familial and cultural history exploring her Mauritanian roots, and evocative nature writing. A reminder of the healing power of growing food, living seasonally and being on the land.
Welsh food stories by Carwyn Graves
A rich and inspiring history of over 2,000 years of Welsh heritage foods. This beautiful book charts the wealth and breadth of Welsh fayre ‘then and now’, and the farmers, fisherfolk, bakers, brewers and growers that make it so unique, delicious and worthy of celebration.
Carwyn will be chairing session 2 “The Way Forward for Farming and Nature in Wales” at the conference (Welsh language session), and appearing as a panellist in session 11 “Why we need Welsh heritage fruit”.
Ultra processed people by Chris Van Tulleken
A highly readable and brilliantly researched account of one man’s journey into the opaque and confusing world of ‘UPF’ (Ultra processed food). This book is ‘super-size me’ for the 2020’s – and paints a picture of the gathering storm that makes the danger to public health and legislative battles with the sugar lobby look like a walk in the park. One scientist interviewed describes UPF not as food, but as ‘industrially produced edible matter’. If you read one science book this year, make it this one!
Rooted: How regenerative farming can change the world by Sarah Langford
Compassionate, moving and humane – this is one of my favourite reads of the past year. Written over the course of a farming tenancy, Sarah mixes first hand experience of the challenges, risks, joys and steep learning curve of her own farming journey with encounters, interviews and case studies of other farmers from around Britain.
Feeding Britain: Our food problems and how to solve them by Professor Tim Lang
A comprehensive break down of the ‘food situation’ we find ourselves in today, how we got there, and some compelling frameworks and solutions for positive change.
Tim will speak at the end of the conference in session 29 “What could a civil resilience framework look like?”
Rosie Evans is a beekeeper and agroforestry worker, currently studying for an MSc in Sustainable Food and Natural Resources with the Centre for Alternative Technology, Machynlleth.
CGFFfC 2022 WRFFC 